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Stabilizing
Solutions
Finding
the right combination of thread, fabric and stabilizer to create
the perfect embroidery can be time consuming. Tossing in variables
such as the designs density or lack of, the garments thread count,
how tight your bobbin was wound, and the needle type can all contribute
to how the end result looks and if we are happy with it!
I feel like stabilizing your garment or the item to be embroidered
with the correct stabilizer is the first step to perfect embroidery.
You want the item to remain beautiful through everyday wear and
tear. Especially after all your hard work and creativity!
Below are just a few suggestions I have found to work for my customers
and me over the years that I have taught classes. With the new
improvements to stabilizers, embroidery just gets more fun with
each design!
General tips for successful embroidery
.
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Have
good lighting in your sewing room. Ott Lights and/or natural
lights will help you when selecting colors of threads and
to make better fabric choices. The lights are pleasing, do
not get hot and don't distort color values.
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If
there is time, launder or dry clean your item before you apply
the embroidery. "Prepping" a new garment will take
care of any shrinkage that may occur.
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Use a good quality embroidery worthy needle. But more importantly
the size that is best for the weight of your garment. Change
your needle often (about every 15 hours of actual embroidery
time). Don't wait on skipped stitches to remind you!
Embroidery
- Has a universal point (not sharp, not ball) and has a
teflon-coated eye. This helps to keep the thread from heating
up and shredding during embroidery. Sizes range from 10/70
to 14/90.
Metafil - Very similar needle to the embroidery
but with a ball point which will prevent skipped stitches
as well as help protect the fibers of delicate stretch fabrics.
Metallica - A must for metallic threads! Has
a longer Teflon coated eye which helps cut down on thread
breakage.
Microtex - This needle has a very sharp, fine
point. Perfect for embroidery on fine cottons, silks, micro-fibers
and wovens.
Titanium - This needle is dipped in titanium,
which makes it three times stronger than regular embroidery
needles. Use when stitching out heavy designs or when stitching
on thick fabric such as denim or canvas. This needle is
also especially nice on lightweight fabrics because the
smaller tip will not create large holes. Available in 11
or 14 sizes.
Leather - Use when embroidering on leather
or leather like materials. The elongated scarf penetrates
without leaving large holes.
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Use
a well wound bobbin - not wrapped too tight and certainly
not a messy loose bobbin. Make sure your bobbin case is clean
and the bobbin inserted correctly. If the bobbin is inserted
upside down, the machine will not stitch correctly.
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Make
sure your embroidery thread is in a position to feed through
the machine freely. If the machine has to "pull"
the thread from the spool it will create extra drag and distort
the tension. If using a metallic thread try to position the
thread to feed vertically. Using a thread stand behind your
machine is the ideal solution for all types of embroidery
threads. Using this system creates less twist and you will
have minimal thread breakage.
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When
hooping, try to achieve "tight as a drum" tension
on the fabric or garment. Using the correct stabilizer will
aid with this. Have a "designated hooping area".
Clutter forces you to hoop on your lap or ironing board which
results in less than perfect tension on your fabric or garment.
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Finger-tighten
the embroidery hoops tension screws. It is not necessary to
use a screwdriver and doing so usually damages or strips the
threads on the screw.
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Have
the necessary tools for a successful embroidery session. Sharp
snips and scissors, fresh marking pens and pencils, good thread
color choices. Don't sacrifice your creative recipe by using
less than perfect ingredients!
Recommended
stabilizers and where to use them:
*Note-The
size and density of the design will affect the weight and quantity
of stabilizer you should use. The numbers and suggestions listed
in the following links are based on professionally digitized,
good quality embroidery designs. Please use this information as
base information. Factors such as your embroidery machine, needle
type, garment quality, thread choice, and how the garment is hooped
all go into how the design will stitch out.
Choose
A Link To Continue:
T-SHIRTS,
GOLF/POLO KNIT SHIRTS AND SWEATSHIRTS
DENIM,
FLANNEL AND HEAVY COTTON SHIRT WEIGHT
TOWELS
AND ROBES
LINEN,
QUILT WEIGHT COTTON, BATISTE, NAPKINS & TEA TOWELS
SILK,
SATIN, TAFFETA, DUPIONI, LAME'
SPANDEX
OR LYCRA (Bathing Suit/Dance Costume)
HARD
TO HOOP" ITEMS SUCH AS SHIRT COLLARS, CUFFS, NAPKIN EDGES,
SOCKS, TOTE BAGS, POCKET TOPS, TIES, ETC.
REVERSIBLE
OR "SEE THROUGH", SHEER FABRICS SUCH AS SILK AND ORGANDY
EMBROIDERY
ON SWEATER or CABLE KNIT
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